In Kunming we seem to have reached some sort of frontline in the Chinese war against old buildings. Going east to west across the centre of the city is an education in Chinese 'progress'. In the west, it is almost all new shiny towering buildings split by wide roads - modern and pretty boring - Anywhereville.
As you move west, you encounter building sites. There is a huge one behind our hostel. The land is walled, cleared and a new block is on the rise.
Further west still, and there are huge areas walled off with machinery busy flattening the old city of ramshackle, built on history, probably pretty crap to live in but very atmospheric, quirky buildings. On the huge posters covering the walls it says things like - History Kunming renew. Optimise Prosperity! I'm paraphrasing. Check out the gallery for the most poignant one - 'History Kunming. Recall the old Street'. We took this to mean "Recall old Kunming by visiting the sanitised recreation of it we are about to build where real thing once stood". There is also a photo of some of the about-to-be demolished buildings.
Hooray! - a block further west, and there are the old buildings still standing. The street is bustling with bicycles and shoppers. The lovely old wooden buildings are leaning against each other for support. I get the impression the days are numbered - a couple of years time and this teeming ramble of small streets won't be here. The pickles 'n' calligraphy brushes 'n' basketballs shop will be no more - priced out of the new shiny development. We wandered through another walled area. Admittedly down at heel buildings were mostly, but not entirely, empty. We saw one old lady hanging out her first floor washing, and had a drink in Rocco's pizzeria - a beautiful old courtyard hung with climbing plants and a red silk lined ceiling.
Moving south, we came across the Muslim area. A mix of old and new, Chinese and hill tribe, Islam and Buddhist, kebab stalls and jade shops. It was getting dark, but there were still pavement sellers in quantity selling fruit and flowers, and the open air restaurants were doing great trade in across-the-bridge-noodles and dumplings.
Eventually we had to head back past the new Carrefour supermarket and KFC/McDonalds complex to our hostel. A view of the future that the Chinese seem to love and embrace with enthusiasm. The Chinese seem to be quite good at preserving (regularly rebuilding) the obvious attractions but I wonder if they will realise that the architecture of ordinary people is valuable too.